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<喜馬拉雅山的另一側,德蘭沙拉> Dharamsala, on the other side of Himalaya from Tibet

昨天與德蘭沙拉的大叔聊天,聊到當時他離開了西藏,來到了德蘭沙拉的故事。

1993年他留的一個字條給家人:人生來就註定要死亡,相聚的同時也註定的分離。於是就提起了背包,離開的西藏。

當時西藏與尼泊爾邊境的管制不嚴厲,他走了27天的山路,跨越藏尼邊境去到尼泊爾的加德滿都,如今,他已經在印度境內的德蘭沙拉定居,開一家餐廳,娶了老婆,生了兩個女兒,擁有一個美滿的家庭。

然而,2013年的今天他回顧:二十年來,自從離開西藏之後,他就再也沒有見到他西藏的家人,無奈與接受變成一種習慣,也不見悲傷。

中國對西藏的侵佔不僅直接造成一百二十萬西藏人的非正常死亡,而且還有近十萬人被迫流亡國外,更有六千座的古廟被毀壞。中共將達賴喇嘛塑造成嗜人血吃人肉的恐怖份子,以自焚表示無助與反抗的藏人,會被公安槍射、滅火、加以拳打腳踢、接著失蹤,即使用「表達無助與反抗的終極行為」來表達自我的權利都沒有了。(1)

中國解放軍徹底的想要拔除藏人的根,拔除信仰,拔除歷史,拔除血脈相連,再用鼓勵大量漢人移居西藏的政策,不斷邊緣西藏既有的文化。

聽了看了中國近日境內西藏的描述,不禁感嘆,西藏都不西藏了。或許目前所處的印度德蘭沙拉,更保有西藏的人文文化。

德蘭沙拉的西藏流亡政府,具有非常完備的組織及系統,對於下一代的教育非常重視。十年前,藏人察覺到下一代對於文化的傳承的危機,像是流亡第二代對於藏語的生疏,於是多次嚴謹的討論開會、甚至請教外國學者以達到更完善的改革,並且投入大部分的流亡藏人基金在教育上,希望培育下一代在印度保有競爭力的同時,不失去自我文化的傳承。於是小孩子在五年級之前,完全用藏語教學,到了六年級之後,再另外選擇兩個語言,印度話,以及英文或中文。

與我們敘述這個教育改革過程的大叔很興奮,他說,第一批接受改革後教育學生今年將接受大考,進入大學,教育改革的成果即將呈現。

一個流離的民族,在一個新的地方建立家園,一切從零開始的確充滿挑戰性,尤其擔著任務,在異地去延續一個民族的根與尊嚴。

tn_P1200488 

<藏人圖書館中的典藏佛經,德蘭沙拉> Budist bible in the Tibetan library, Dhramsala

 

聽說,今日拉薩的布達拉宮廣場已經成了一張門票一百人民幣的觀光勝地,而西藏境內的人民要成為僧人,思想上需要認同:承認西藏是中國的一部分、認同中共所選定的喇嘛(2)、認同中國共產黨、服從黨的思想...等等,非常中共style的作為。同時,限制每年成為藏傳僧人的數目,嚴格控管藏教於中國境內勢力狀態。

對照去過拉薩的旅遊日記及報導,可以想見今日的德蘭沙拉的路上,比拉薩可以看到更多的藏傳僧人,也可以看到更多藏人自信而微笑的臉孔。

對於未來能否回到自己的故鄉,藏人們由衷期待盼望著。對於蠻橫的大中,藏人選擇非暴力抗爭及溫柔的對抗,我除了感到不捨,也生了幾分敬佩。

達賴喇嘛說過一個故事:有個住在拉薩的喇嘛名叫洛本勒(Lopon-la),被中共的解放軍抓去關了十八年,最後終於被釋放出來,來到印度見達賴喇嘛,雖然說是看起來老了一點,但身心狀況卻還是非常良好,還是原來那位親切的和尚。在獄中,解放軍要他放棄自己的宗教,嚴刑拷打了他無數次,後來達賴喇嘛問他怕不怕?他回答:「是的,有一件事我很害怕。我很怕自己會失去對中國人的慈悲。

可能是這樣的力量,讓這群子民即使在流亡的路上,仍然不忘記對著這個世界微笑。

我衷心期待,期待有更多勇敢而善良的力量,協助西藏獨立,讓一個民族帶著尊嚴,回家。也同時期待,這個世界上許許多多被邊緣的族群,同樣可以帶著尊嚴,留在自己的家鄉。

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<德蘭沙拉>Dhramsala
 

(1)

201211月,藏人自焚事件猛增,一個月內有至少20名自焚者喪生。截止201310月,已有約至少121名經報導的喇嘛、女尼或包括農牧民在內的藏人自焚,其中約至少103人死亡,被西藏女作家唯色稱為「是近代史上最偉大最慘烈的政治抗議浪潮。」關於藏人自焚的認知,《紐約客》一篇文章寫到:「自焚是表達無助與反抗的終極行為,是在鬥爭無望的情況下自我犧牲的英勇行為。」

http://0rz.tw/MSBI9

 

(2)

 在藏人的信仰中,班禪喇嘛是無量光佛的轉世。在一代代轉世過程中,班禪喇嘛和達賴喇嘛有互為師徒,互相認證的傳統。

今天在中國境內公開出現的第十一世班禪喇嘛,不是按照佛教儀軌、由達賴喇嘛認證的十世班禪喇嘛轉世,而是中國政府強行指定的另一個轉世。中共指定的十一世班禪喇嘛雖是藏人,卻被藏地民眾悄悄稱為「漢班禪」;而達賴喇嘛認定的轉世,就相應地被稱為「藏班禪」。第十一世班禪出現「雙胞案」,是靈童尋訪過程中,中國政府和達賴喇嘛合作失敗的結果。失敗的原因是,藏人認為尋找真正的轉世靈童是對他們至關緊要的宗教事務,而中國政府官員卻有太多的政治考量,以政治干涉宗教。這次合作的失敗是悲劇性的。「藏班禪」一經宣佈,立即在中國政府控制下失蹤,全家人間蒸發十幾年,國際社會再三探尋也無可奈何。不幸的還有那位「漢班禪」,他未經達賴喇嘛認證,「名不正言不順」,身處中國政府嚴密控制之下,無法獲得藏傳佛教高僧大德的傳授,也難以擺脫中國政府加諸於他的政治標籤。

http://www.open.com.hk/content.php?id=994#.UrBZDNIW2so

http://0rz.tw/DfmVA


tn_P1200542

<到處可見"自由西藏"> Free Tibet

 

My thoughts in Dharamsala, Tibetan in Exile  

Much thanks for my dearest sister, Diana's help for the better English version

 

These are stories to be known about Dharamsala, where most exiles from Tibet find a second home.

A few days ago, I was talking with a 40-year-old Tibetan, and I got to know about the story of his escape from Tibet.  In 1993, he left a note for his family: We're born to be dead, gathered to be apart.  Then he picked up his bag and left Tibet.

By that time, the border control between Tibet and Nepal wasn't as strict.  He walked 27 days in the mountains to reach Kathmandu in Nepal.  Twenty-one years later, he is a husband with a happy family in Dharamsala, and makes a living by running a local restaurant.  However, for the past two decades, he has not seen his family back in Tibet.  Acceptance for the worst, and a lost sense of helplessness had become a the general idea. But he also knows, being low spirited won’t help with the situation.

The occupying of Tibet by China had caused 1.2 million Tibetans to die unnaturally, and there are about 100 thousand exiles abroad.  Moreover, 6000 Tibetan temples had been destroyed, and the world known Nobel Peace Prize winner and Tibetan spiritual leader-- Dalai Lama-- had been depicted by Chinese government as a man who tears human skin for ceremony. For this false accusation and many others, the Tibetan monks are restricted from paying respects to their spiritual leader.  Many Tibetans protested helplessly by self-immolation, and they were often treated to Chinese police's gun shoots before the fire gets put out. Then comes the heavy beating, and following that mysterious disappearances. Tibetans could not express themselves, and each action they carried out with was a protest beaten down, they felt extremely helpless.


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<自焚者的悼念> Paying respect to the people who sacrificed by self-immolation

It has become more and more obvious what the Chinese government wants to do: pull out the roots of everything Tibetan-- no more religious practices in the traditional way, modified history textbooks taught to the next generation, and migration policies encouraging the Chinese population to move to Tibet.  And of course, the next generation of Tibetans are educated under the Chinese education system, which teaches them to love their country as China and identify with China’s doing.

Now, I've heard many things about the Tibet, and it doesn’t sound attractive at all as a travel s destination.  Since the massive and brutal invasion of foreign culture, Tibet is not Tibet anymore.  Maybe now Dharamsala, India, has preserved more Tibetan culture than Tibet itself.  Tibetan Government in Exile has formed up a system to protec their culture and its roots in Dharamsala.  They especially emphasize on the importance of education for the next generation, hoping to maintain their culture, with dignity.


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 <在西藏之外,至少教育是自由的> Education toward a free Tibet

 

"Whenever the Dalai Lama talks about forgiveness, he likes to use as an example the story of Lopon-la, a Lhasa monk he knew before

 the Chinese occupation.

" 'After I escaped from Tibet, Lopon-la was put in prison by the Chinese,' the Dalai Lama told me. 'He stayed there eighteen years. When he finally was free, he came to India. For twenty years, I did not see him. But he seemed the same. Of course, he looked older, but physically OK. His mind still sharp after so many years in prison. He was still t

he same gentle monk.

" Forgiveness helped him in prison. Because of forgiveness, his bad experience with Chinese not got worse. Mentally and emotionally, he didn't suffer too much. He knew he could not escape. So, it’s better to accept reality than to be traumatized by it.'" 'He told me the Chinese forced him to denounce his religion. They tortured him many times in prison. I asked him whether he was ever afraid. Lopon-la then told me: 'Yes, there was one thing I was afraid of. I was afraid I may lose compassion for the Chinese.'

Maybe it's the power of condonation and forgiveness, that even on the road of exile, The Tibetans can still face the world with a smile.

From the bottom of my heart, I hope there will be more forces coming from the brave and kind, to help Tibet along the road to independence . One day, theTibetans would make their way home, with dignity.

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 <"希望長期耕耘在我們心中的自由可以實現,而在不久的未來,西藏的子民可以享受心靈及政治上的和諧">
"May the earning for freedom of all Tibet that we have nurtured in our hearts for so long come true, and soon enjoy the fortune of glorious celebration of spiritual and political harmony."

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